This page is about repairing a "jet bumper" also known as a "pop bumper."  To repair the Mylar you should wait until you've removed the pop bumper parts and just remove the plastic Mylar (if it's there) and stick the new one on.  I have resorted to creating a bumper Mylar in the past by using a Mylar sheet similar to what you use to seal documents and using a tuna fish can as the outline for the Mylar circle. I use this technique instead of buying a new round Mylar sheet.  Some of the sheets you can buy are not sticky on one side but just lay flat.  Personally, I like the sticky kind.

The thing that made me replace some parts in the first place was the chewed up "skirt" (red in this case) that the Pinball contacts, pushes down in to the "spoon," which triggers a switch to the coil to pull the metal ball kicker downwards which pushes the Pinball away from the pop bumper.  Other reasons to repair a pop bumper is that one or more of the threaded shafts on the ball kicker has broken off or the end of the coil shaft is broken.  I've even come across a broken metal assembly that holds the whole thing in place.

Process

I first begin by removing the pop bumper cover small screws from the top of the pop bumper (a red one in my example pictures below), and then the two screws that hold the plastic guide and bulb receptacle in place.  Remember to take the screws completely out since when you lift the playfield up you may hear them falling somewhere (usually the toughest place to reach).  Observing the pictures below, you can see that I start by first removing the two screws on the shafts that pull the metal ball kicker down. Then I remove the three screws holding the assembly to the bottom of the playfield.  

Upon removal of the bumper assembly, I discovered that not only was the skirt chewed up by Pinballs, but the shaft itself had a broken piece that needed to be replaced.  I have some other games around where I can reuse the shaft parts.

Then I de-solder the light wires noting if one is longer than the other.  In some cases the light wires are stapled to the playfield to hold them in place.  After de-soldering the wires, I use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull on the light wires to make the staples pop up in order to release the bumper plastic that's on top of the playfield.  You can't get around this part as there is no way to remove the chewed up skirt without de-soldering the light wires from below and then pulling the whole assembly off of the playfield.

You will find that you have to unscrew the two small screws that hold the coil stop in place if you're replacing the coil shaft and/or the coil tube.  While you're at it, don't forget to replace the coil tube with a new one since bumpers get pretty worn tubes and you're there anyway, why go cheap now?

In one of the pictures below I show the "spoon" and the wires that are connected to the bulbs that have to be de-soldered from below the playfield.  In this case one lead of the wires is a little longer than the other.  Remember which side has the longer lead since it affects the wiring (one lead is the "common" side, the other isn't).

After taking out the pop bumper, I remember how things came apart and which way pieces faced so that I can reinstall parts back in their original order.  Regarding the "skirt,"  I had a case where I ran out of a new red skirt and yet I needed to get the game back in working order for some play time when friends were coming over.  What I did was a kludge, but it will allow you to get the game back in working order until your new skirt arrives.  What you do is look at the side of the skirt that is chewed up by the Pinball striking it.  Then look at the playfield and examine which side the Pinball will strike the skirt.  Turn the skirt around so that the other non-damaged side will contact the Pinball when it is reassembled.  This will allow you to use the same old part but at least have it working correctly until the new skirt arrives.  If the chewed up part is obvious when playing the game, you may not want to do this since it will make your game appear as though it's not kept in the best of shape.

You may also want to replace the "bumper body" that resides on top of the playfield and guides the ball kicker.  The plastic often gets chewed up and wears through the side of the plastic where the ball kicker rods move up and down.

Now it's time to reassemble the bumper assembly and attach it to the playfield from the top.  First, I hold the plastic ball kicker guide with the skirt attached and the bulb wires through the top of the playfield being sure to get the light wires in the proper direction (one was shorter than the other on mine).  You don't actually have to have the ball kicker in place at this time but I have it all together as one unit when I'm on the top side of the playfield.  Then I screw the plastic bumper body in place.  Actually, I use needle nose pliers to put the two screws in place through the bumper body since it's easier to do this while the bumper body is easier to access.  Don't try to use your fingers unless you have baby fingers since you will eventually come to realize that needle nose pliers work best anyway.  I re-solder the light wires from the bottom of the playfield before I do anything else.  Sometimes you will find that the light wires from the bumper assembly are un-insulated wires (sometimes they are flat strips of metal rather than wire) and were stapled in place on the bottom of the playfield.  I don't have that small a staple gun, so I use hot glue to hold the wires in place.  Just put the coil assembly in place from the bottom and ensure that the metal assembly will not touch the light wires before you hot-glue the wires in place.  Then I put a washer on each of the ball kicker shafts (they were removed to get the ball kicker assembly out from the top) while reaching around to the top of the game with one hand holding the ball kicker in place.  I put the metal coil assembly in place and tighten the two ball kicker shaft nuts first.  Then I tighten the three nuts that hold the coil assembly in place (sometimes these are screws rather than nuts).

The only thing left to do now is replace the light bulb and replace the bumper cover from the top of the playfield.  Sometimes you will find that the spoon has been bent a little and the skirt may not trip the coil that pulls the ball kicker down.  That's why I turn the game on and test the skirt before reassembling the ramps that invariably cover the pop bumper.  I also check the light in the pop bumper to ensure that it works correctly.

That's about it.  I have found that the only hard part to this whole process is removing all the other stuff so that I can get to the pop bumper.  Once there, and assuming I have all of the parts such as the skirt, bumper body, a coil rod if I need it, and a new coil tube; I can replace all of the parts in about 15 minutes.

Removing the metal coil assembly from below.	Whoops, looks like it has a broken coil shaft.
These are the coil stop screws located on the coil assembly.	The center area shows the "spoon" contact and the wires for the light.
Soldering the light wires.	This is the playfield top view.
This is what a broken "skirt" looks like when the ball has chewed it up.	This is the top of the bumper  assembly out of the playfield.
A bottom view of the bumper.	Reinserting the assembly.