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Welcome to my European
trip advice page that covers lots of topics regarding travel to
Europe, primarily in England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, and France.
I suppose you could use most of the advice for traveling in general,
but some of the information is specific to European travel. So read on and I hope my
trip advice ends up saving you time and money as well as keeping you
informed on one person's opinion regarding taking trips from the
U.S.A. to Europe. I have completely checked and updated this page
where necessary as of
late December 2006. This
page is separated as follows: Pre-trip
Advice - my opinion on the airline you should use as well as the
type of planes to look for.
Quick Links - some Internet links to a
variety of sites useful for planning your trip.
Advice Quick Links - click on a
subject matter (in alphabetical order) to jump to the description and
advice I offer.
Example Trip List - this is the actual list of
items I pack for my trips and I simply print it out and use it as a
check list before I leave to ensure I have no late night "oh yeah,
I need to remember xyz"
that will keep me awake worrying if I will actually remember the
item. I learned that once you create a list,
don't throw it away - you can use it and update it if need be for the next trip and don't have
to go through the nights of restless sleep wondering if you remembered
everything for the trip. The example trip list is an Adobe PDF
document showing my 2004 trip list info.
If going to England,
Scotland, Wales, Ireland, or France, use
British Airways if you can. If you can't get BA, try another European
airline -
stay away from the American carriers as they are just too unreliable
and will stress you needlessly due to the hubbing system they use
where your flight depends on another flight's successful arrival,
etc. If you can, stick to the newer 777 jets.
They have the movie screen built in to the back of the seat in front
of you and there are lots of different channels for watching movies and
listening to music. One interesting item is the on-screen view of the jet in
relationship to the trip. It shows the location over the earth
including air speed, headwind/tailwind, and time left before landing
at the destination airport. If you are riding in the coach section, do not take a 747
since these jets are not good when it comes to
space and especially viewing a movie. If one person in front of
you turns their head to talk to the person next to them, everyone
behind that person will not be able to see the movie screen. I
have flown 767s before but being tall, I find that the seats give me a
major backache and I can't seem to get comfortable. If I
couldn't find a 777 though, I'd settle for the 767.
Try and book all lodging reservations for your
trip via the Internet if possible! There is nothing worse than
spending your valuable travel time attempting to find lodging once
you arrive in Europe. It
just isn't necessary due to the presence of the Internet and the
fact that most good places use the Internet for booking the
reservations, answering any questions you may have via email,
negotiating rates, showing maps of their location, sites to see
nearby, history of the area, rates they charge, their FAX and phone
numbers, owners names, guestbook entries, recommended nearby
restaurants, etc. Since I have two teenagers that travel with
us, I try to stay at places that offer Internet access at the B&B or
Hotel, or at least have a place nearby where the kids can check
their email while my wife and I enjoy some time alone or hit the pub. I start
booking my reservations about 2 months in advance and I do
everything over the Internet. Once in a while I end up having
to make a phone call to clarify things, but that is a rare occasion.
Besides, if you really want to be organized, you will need all of
the details regarding your trip so that you can send the info (most likely
via email) to your friends or relatives in case something happens at
home and someone needs to get information to/from you.
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www.americanexpress.com/travel
- You can research and book flights, rental cars and hotel rooms
from this well made site. You will find bargain deals as
well as virtual tours, restaurant guides and other items of
interest such as Fodor's destination guides and stories from
Travel & Leisure.
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www.bootsnall.com
- This site is more for the low-budget traveler that wants to save
money by traveling cheap as well as visiting interesting places
without spending a lot of money.
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www.castles.org
- Be sure and check out this website for information
regarding castles throughout Europe.
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Family-cruises.net
- How about a family cruise while in Europe? Go here
to book your travel with Heijin and tell her Steve sent you.
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Currency
converter - A good site to determine money conversion
rates.
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www.FranceKeys.com/
- This is a great site for planning your trip to France.
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www.interknowledge.com/northern-ireland/
- Good site for finding information about travel to Northern
Ireland.
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www.letsgo.com
- Based on the "Lets Go" guidebooks for budget
travelers. You might find more info in their guidebooks, but
this site is still useful.
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http://www.secretlondonwalks.co.uk/
- If you are interested in taking any of the more famous
walks around London, this is a good site to start your journey.
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www.ricksteves.com/
- Many of us have watched the Rick Steves show on travel to
Europe, and he also has a good site covering much of the same
information. His graffiti board lists comments by travelers
regarding their experiences in miscellaneous European sites.
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www.s-h-systems.co.uk/shs.html
- This is probably one of the best sites to find a hotel or
B&B in the U.K. I found several B&Bs via this site
and was pleased with all of them.
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Ton
De Maagt Hiking Page -
Info for those that like to
hike throughout Europe as well as many other sites that deal with
travel in Europe.
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http://www.ViaMichelin.co.uk - This is a great site for
creating direction instructions as well as printing maps for
your travel in Europe. Be sure and sign up for the free
service so that you can store your itineraries in case you need
to access them while in Europe.
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York,
England Web Site - Good site for finding out more
info on York, England. I especially like York and would recommend
it as a place to visit.
Here are
some quick links to the topics of interest that I describe in detail.
Air
Conditioning
Airline Info
Airline Carrier
Airfare
Airline Seating
Airports
Auto Rental
Cafes
Chunnel
Clothes
Credit Cards
Crime
Cruises
Currency Converter
Customs
Discount Tickets
Driving
International
Driver's License
Driving Directions
Electrical Requirements
Food
Hotels and B&Bs
Hotel Arrival
Hot Water
Internet
Itinerary
Jetlag
Laundry/Ironing Clothes
Liquor
Luggage
Maps
Money
Packing
Passport
Pick-pockets
Pubs
Purse Snatching
Questions To
Ask When Booking A B&B/Hotel
Roads & Highways
Sound Machines
Subway Systems
Taxis
Telephone
Calls
Tipping
Toilet, WC, Restrooms,
Bathrooms
Train Passes
Train Rides
Train Stations
Trip List
Weather
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Air Conditioning -
Europeans don't seem to care much about air conditioning in many hotels
and especially
B&Bs and seem to view it as a luxury as opposed to American
travelers that grow to expect it in their stay. Many Hotels
and B&Bs
aren't great about fans either. A problem with simply using fans is
that they basically re-circulate the hot air. One thing we noticed is that there just
isn't much air
circulation due to crowded buildings next to each other when
staying in large cities such as London and Paris. Even though it was in the low to mid-70s (F)
in Paris, it still felt hot every night we were there. It
never felt cool in our rooms no matter what time of day or night
it was - until we went to the Bersoly's hotel in Paris. The air
conditioning there was just fine. The Bonnington Hotel in
London now has air conditioning and although I wish it was even
cooler, it's better than what it used to be. You should
ask about air conditioning if you plan to stay during the summer
months since there is nothing worse than laying in bed at night
and sweating or having to open the windows only to hear every
sound (remember, sound carries further at night) or worse yet,
to have pigeons or doves right outside the windows making
sounds.
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Airline Info - I've
identified some items below you will want to note since they can make
one of the longest parts of journey pleasant or miserable.
Airline Carrier - No doubt about it, British Airways
has been
the best deal for us although lately I've been ticked with them
regarding the number of air miles I've received. It turns
out that if you book a cheaper fare you only get 25% of the
miles rather than all of them (this is different than the
American air carriers). The service
is good on the flights and most of all, the 777 jet they use for the non-stop
international flights. I have also
flown before on Air France which I really enjoy as well, but if you're
English speaking, the British Airways airline is probably the way
to go. If I was flying non-stop only to Paris, and British
Airways didn't have something that flew non-stop, then I'd
probably go with Air France. Remember that most liquor is
free on the flight when you fly International (mostly beer and
wine, but includes hard liquor as well), however some American
airlines actually charge you for the liquor. Some of the
American carriers also charge you for the headsets or earpieces
to listen to music or movies. In the case of the earpieces
they tell you that when you buy them, you can keep them. I
think this is just a cheap way of doing business and personally
I won't use them as my travel carrier.
We flew United Airlines using their 777s one year and it was pretty much
the same, but United Airlines screwed up three of the four legs of
the journey for reasons unknown to me. We were lucky we got
there at all. I won't be flying them again when I go to
Europe.
The only other thing I've caught British Airways doing is a bit of
bait-and-switch regarding their flights from London to Dublin.
They showed it as a 737 on the Internet but it turned out to be
a much smaller plane when we arrived at the gate. They
also make up some excuse about how the carry-on luggage is
limited (hey, it still weighs the same whether you check it in
or put it in the overhead) so they claim we have to check it in
at the gate just before we board the plane. They've done
this both times we flew to Dublin from London even though the
flights were three years apart. Personally, I don't
believe them regarding the lame excuse they make about there
being no room. Every time we got on the plane the
overheads were practically empty. The downside is that I
have medicine, photography stuff, and money that I have to
quickly get out of the carry-on so I can bring it with me.
Very inconvenient and a dopey excuse if you ask me.
I'm still ticked at British Airways for not getting my trips
straight. They know I flew round trip to London but still
refuse to give me the miles. They have a reservation
system that screwed things up and they refuse to give me the
miles for our 2003 trip despite numerous emails and time on the
phone arguing this point. The ironic part is that their
system had correctly given me the round trip miles to Dublin
from London which was also one of the tickets we booked at the
same time as our Denver to London round trip. I have
boarding passes and everything to prove it but they still refuse
to give me or my family the miles. Hey, maybe they aren't
that great an airline after all.
Airfare -
I shop around and get our tickets
for about 700 bucks unless there's an oil shortage or oil prices
are high in which case the fare can be up to $900 each.
They also tack on a post-911 fee that jacks the price up around
$100.
If you get a good deal, pay immediately or you may get what
happened to me - the airfare was cheaper when I initially booked
the seats, I didn't pay right then, and the fare went up 75
bucks by the next day. I subscribe to various airline
email listings so that I'm aware of any specials they may be
offering, especially around plane plus hotel deals that end up
cheaper than if booked separately. I check the online
booking prices and then call the airline anyway since the online
fees may be more expensive despite all the hype about saving
money via the Internet. Booked tickets for 2004 and found
the Internet was $100 more than calling the airline. Until
things mature for online booking you may want to try both the
Internet and calling.
Airline Seating - Stay away from bulkheads and the
very tail of the airplane or near the bathrooms. We found out the hard way that
the airline will build a kind of bassinet at the bulkheads for
babies and small children to sleep and the kids rarely go to sleep.
They'll just stand up in the bassinet and cry for momma just about
the whole trip. Don't buy that story about how the kids will
go to sleep - they don't!
At the very back of the plane and near bathrooms, you will find
folks that want to stand up to stretch and hang around getting
water, orange juice, or pretzels and shoot the breeze with each
other. This means you should stay halfway between the
bulkhead and the tail of the airplane if you are in the coach
section. You could sit in an aisle seat that gives you a little more room, but
it also causes you to hand
interior-seated folks their food or to get up while they go to the
bathroom or want to stretch. You may want to stay more
towards the center seating if you are flying at night. If
there are three or four of you traveling, try to get seats towards the
window on a 777. There are three seats on the window side of
the plane and one person could sit across the aisle on the aisle
seat of the center section. That works well for us as a family of four.
An annoying thing I've encountered lately is that airlines will
only release about 30% of coach seat information for seat
reservations. This means that most likely you won't get an
assigned seat until you get to the airport. Sometimes you
can use your reservation number to go online within 12 hours of
the flight and see where they put you, and you may even be able
to select your own seats. The question I have is why can't
they just give the information in the first place? No one
at the airline has been able to answer that question.
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Airports - We like
London's Heathrow and Gatwick with
the preference being Gatwick due to it being less busy and crowded.
British Airways started off in Denver by having a non-stop from
Denver to Gatwick but changed over to Heathrow. Not sure why
they did this since when initially trying to book a flight
through Heathrow to Paris CDG, they had us taking a bus from
Heathrow to Gatwick in order to go to Paris. I ended up
changing plans and took the Chunnel instead since it's about the
same cost for the four of us and won't blow 4 hours fooling
around with multiple airports while full of jet lag. We like to stay in Bloomsbury
(London area)
so flying in to Heathrow, taking the Heathrow Express to
Paddington station, and then grabbing a taxi to the hotel is not a big
deal for landing at that airport. The cost for using a Taxi
is around 50 GBP (as of June 2004). Either way, it isn't
really all that bad which airport you arrive at in the
morning. My preference is for Gatwick mostly because it
isn't as busy as Heathrow. The Customs line at Heathrow can
be ridiculous. We have spent over an hour in line a couple
of times since it seems that all the America to London flights
arrive at the same time. That's why you should start
moving quickly when it's time to leave the plane. Either
that or find yourself standing in a long line at Customs.
Charles DeGaulle airport in Paris is
another story. I hate to say it, but what a dopey layout those folks have.
It's bad enough that the language is a problem, but the sheer
stupidity in the layout of that airport astounds me. The
airport looks as though someone thought it would look
"futuristic" when they designed it. Instead, they
have a layout that is very user-unfriendly. A rather
long rubber treadmill that is steeper than you would imagine
leads to Customs and heaven help you if you fall, you'll probably tumble
200 feet head over heels all
the way down this steep thing. The problem
is that it ends about 50 feet from Customs and since you are on a
rather big plane, there will be lots of people lined up at
customs. You may not be able to get off of the treadmill due
to the long line in front of Customs if things are moving slowly. We actually saw people walking backwards in
place because there was nowhere for them to go due to the long
line of people directly in front of the Customs desks.
Really dumb in my opinion.
Then there's the exit to the outside of the airport in Paris where you catch a shuttle bus to the main train station -
another questionable setup. There are signs telling you the number of the exit
(Sortie),
but there's a long line of people waiting to get into one of
several
elevators with only about 10 peoples' worth of standing room
outside the elevators as they wait their turn to go
downstairs. Each elevator could handle about 10 people at
the most since most everyone had luggage with them. The
"exit" to go downstairs is rather hidden too. We
walked around trying to figure out where it was and were clued in
when we saw a rather long line of people standing around.
Judging by the rest of the wacky layout of the airport, we
figured this must be the exit to go outside and we were right.
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Auto Rental - Don't
even bother trying to avoid the insurance costs. It simply
isn't worth going through the hassle if you are in an
accident. When the price of your trip will be on the order
of thousands of dollars, why worry about a hundred bucks or
so? When in London with plans to travel throughout the U.K.
(every year we do this), we rent a car in London from Hertz and the only thing
I can tell you is to watch out where you rent your
car. It turns out that it's a lot easier if you rent it on
the outskirts of town rather than in town and trying to figure out
how to get out of town - especially in London where everything
seems backwards due to driving on the other side of the road and
the steering wheel and controls on the opposite side of the
car. Plan on whatever company you use pulling a "bait
and switch" technique. No matter what car I've been
told I will get, I always get something else and it's always
smaller than expected. Sometimes they will "upgrade" you,
but then you end up driving around a gas-guzzling tank.
One other very important item to note is where you are supposed
to return the rental car. I rented a car in Paris at
Esplanade Invalides (the Air France building) and found that the
car return is not where the paperwork was signed. Since I
didn't ask them where to return the car when I first rented it,
I ended up parking on a sidewalk and running in to ask them
where I should return it. It turned out that the drop-off
was where we picked it up (a few blocks away in an underground
parking area) and I was supposed to drop the keys in a lockbox
and just leave the car parked in any available space. I
would have saved a lot of time and anxiety had I known this when
I picked up the car in the first place. The only other
thing I didn't know was how to actually drive to the drop-off
place. Turns out that I had to walk the few blocks to pick
up the car, but when driving I encountered one-way streets and
no left turns which caused me to drive a completely different
way to the drop-off than I took to initially pick up the car.
ALWAYS do a walk-around before you leave the rental place to
ensure that all damage has been recorded. We rented a car in
Dublin one time that had all kinds of scratch marks on the left side of
the car. I can remember thinking "that's odd, why are
all these scratches on the left side of the car?" Drive
in Ireland, you'll quickly come to understand why this is the
case. You are constantly swiping tree branches on the left
side of the car due to the narrowness of the off-roads.
Scratches are on the left because that's the passenger side since
you drive on the left rather than the right. Ireland is one
of the worst bait-and-switch places when it comes to car
rentals. We were in Ireland in 2003 and it had to be the
worst rental car from Hertz yet. The car had numerous
dents, scratches, a broken rear-view mirror, a huge patch of "bondo"
on the roof (the roof?), and the seats were shot. We later
found out that the uncomfortable seats were surpassed by even
worse shock absorbers. They also didn't have another car
we could use. None.
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Cafes -
The Cafes in France can be quite fun as a resting place to sip a
wine or coffee and watch people walk by. Our favorite is
in Paris and is Les Deux Magots along the left bank. This
is probably the most infamous cafe and it can be hard to get a
seat. Note that the price of your drinks changes based on
where you consume your drink. The cheapest price is if you
stand at the bar. The next more expensive price is if you
sit at a table inside the cafe. The most expensive is if
you sit outside at a table where you can watch people walking
by. You will find that drinking wine in France at a cafe
is cheaper than drinking beer. We often get olives or
peanuts to munch on while we sit outside at a table and drink
beer or wine. Don't feed the pigeons since this really
annoys the waiters because the pigeons are their mortal enemies.
Also watch out not to set your camera, purse, or back pack on
the table where someone walking by could easily snatch it and
run.
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Chunnel -
The Eurostar Chunnel seems to have rates that are comparable to taking a flight from London to Paris. The
actual crossing under the Channel takes about 20 minutes and you
really can't see anything since it's a dark tunnel. The
whole trip takes about 3 to 4 hours from Waterloo station in
London and arrives in Paris at the Gare du Nord train station. The train is
traveling quite fast on most of the trip (in excess of 100MPH)
and has more plusses than minuses when compared to flying.
The main difference is that you only need to be at the train
station an hour before you leave, and your luggage goes with
you. It may seem as though security isn't all that tight,
but people have to walk through metal detectors and their
luggage is screened, so I guess it's OK.
When traveling as a family, try and get center seats that face
each other across a small table when you make your reservations
(there are two seats side by side in each row on each side of
the train - two seats, then an aisle, then two seats). You
can buy food outside the train station and bring it with you
since it will be somewhat cheaper than buying it on the train
(their tea and coffee was never very hot). Get near the
front of the line that will get on the train and know your car
number before you try to board. Getting there earlier than
others allows you to put your luggage in the same car you will
be riding and you can store carry-on stuff over the top of your
seats. There is a food car in the train and the prices
aren't too bad. If you plan to eat on the train, wait
until it leaves the station and then head up to the food car
before the long lines start. Either that or wait after
they announce the food car information since a lot of people
will head for the food car.
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Clothes - The weather in
the U.K. and Ireland can be
strange. It often rains if you are not there during
June to September so you should plan to bring an
umbrella and a waterproof raincoat of some kind. The whole
time we have been there in June the sky is clear and never really rained
all that much. Then again, we like to travel during the second week of
June since the Europeans haven't started their serious vacationing
yet. The locals frequently tell us that it is the most
unusual weather they have had in years (I think you hear that
kind of comment no matter when or where you go). Our trips
to London, York, and Ireland have been quite hot in June on
multiple occasions. Once again, the
locals said this was very unusual weather. Our trips have
been OK weather-wise in the past, although the weather has gone from cool and needing
jackets to very hot depending on where we were. The point is
to bring raincoats and try to use them as a jacket in case it
gets cool and you are traveling other than from July to early
September.
In Paris it rained one day for about two hours. That was it
for the whole trip. It was cool at times so although we were
there from mid-June through the end of June, shorts and
short-sleeve shirts would not have worked out too well. It
was a little too cool for that on a daily basis. We just
carried our raincoat (expensive lightweight ones) in our
backpacks with an umbrella (had the kids pack the umbrellas in
their backpacks) and had light layers of clothes.
Black umbrella tip - Learned a valuable lesson about black
umbrellas a couple of times. Never set a black umbrella
down on a dark floor, the trunk of a car, or even on a black
suitcase since the color doesn't contrast enough to notice it.
Ended up leaving an umbrella behind a couple of times because we
simply didn't see it.
Although it can be cool at night in the summer, it never seems to get cool in our hotel or B&B rooms in
England unless we specifically stay at a place with air
conditioning (more likely at a Hotel). It seems as though
it is always hot no matter what time of day or night it is
unless it's in the winter.
One thing that is kind of strange is the sunlight in the summer. The sky
is
still fairly lit even at 11PM at night (due to how far North
the cities are located). It never really seems to get what I
would call dark. Wales was nice and cool, bordering on cold
and we could never tell when it might sprinkle. Not really a
heavy downpour, just a light sprinkle that didn't require us to
wear a raincoat or use an umbrella. Scotland is somewhat
rainy and cold on the West coast, but drier and warmer on the
East coast (Edinburgh area).
Ireland is a little different than London and Paris. You
spend most of your time driving since they don't have much
of a transit system (except in Dublin). This means your
raincoat can be left in the car.
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Credit Cards
- We always use credit cards when we can. We don't bother
with American Express cards since it seems many businesses
refuse to take them. We also don't bother with Traveler's
Cheques since people don't seem to take them either.
Credit cards and ATM cards are the main items you should bring
to handle paying your bills and getting cash from the ATM
machines that are most everywhere. Be sure and notify both
your Credit Card company as well as your Bank that you will be
in Europe so that they don't put a hold on your account until
you call them. This can be embarrassing and disruptive.
You should also bring a photocopy of your credit card and ATM
card and write the customer service phone numbers on the
photocopy so you will know the number to call in case they are
lost or stolen. You should know the limit for your ATM
card withdrawals since Europe can be quite expensive compared to
America. If the Bank only allows a $300 withdrawal per day
and the exchange rate for Euros and Pounds is not too good, you
won't be able to get out very much money at one time. This
makes a difference if you expect to pay your B&B with cash and
you planned to do it by using your ATM card once you arrived.
You might be surprised when the Bank only lets you withdraw 160
Pounds because the exchange rate is around $1.85 per Pound and
you have a $300 limit on withdrawals per day.
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Crime - Never found this to be the
case in London when giving them bills and expecting change, but
found it several times in Paris. They would take advantage
of the language barrier and play dumb regarding how much change
I was to receive. I didn't care for this aspect.
Especially be careful when dealing with street vendors in Paris.
They are notorious for not giving you back the correct change when
they determine you are an American.
You realize how dangerous our country in the U.S. is when you go abroad and find that
people have more class than to want to hurt other people.
Most of the police don't carry guns - especially in London.
The only place we ever saw a gun in England was at the airport, and
there they walked around with machine guns (yikes).
Pick-pockets are a problem in both London and Paris especially
around places where large crowds congregate or people are forced
together (for example, on the subway during rush-hour or in the
Taxi line outside a train station). I
had an attempted pick-pocket episode in Paris that taught me some
lessons (see below for my discussion on
pick-pockets).
Also read below regarding
purse
snatching
(applies to stealing cameras, tote-bags, and
backpacks as well). The biggest thing to watch out for is
common rip-off techniques around taxi ride cost, people helping
you with buying your tickets, etc., while in Paris, and gypsies
(they get all the blame don't they?) coming up to you and
grabbing you or acting like they want to sell you something.
This is a common tactic to pick your pocket or to have one of
the kids pick your pocket. If you see one of these people
approaching you, know where your purse and wallet are and get
the heck away from these people. Don't talk or try to
reason with them, just get out of there.
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Cruises -
Although we typically take planes,
trains, buses, the Chunnel, etc., to do our travel, what about a
cruise? There are cruises you can take along the canals in
England, the Rhine River or canals and rivers throughout France
where you can relax and enjoy the scenery while someone else
does the navigation. You get to ride on a boat (well, much
more than just a boat actually), check out the beautiful
scenery, visit historical areas, have some great meals and form
relationships that could last you a lifetime. Sounds good
to me. Go
here to learn more about booking your travel via cruises
where you can save time and get some good deals along the way.
I have many friends that do it this way, especially for a
romantic getaway.
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Customs - Pretty much cut and dry. Standing
in line (known as a queue) waiting to show them your passport is about all there
is
to it. Returning to the U.S. is really easy since you
practically walk on through. In Denver they usually ask me if I
have anything to declare, I tell them no, and they say welcome
back home, and we leave the area. Usually have to wait over 45 minutes
to get our luggage, but other than that it isn't bad. The
wait times for luggage in Paris and London have been really small and
everything has arrived OK but the customs line has taken us almost
an hour at Heathrow compared to 30 minutes at Gatwick. It really
depends on the number of International flights that arrive at the
same time as yours.
I'd suggest rather than running up and getting in just any line, you
look very carefully at the various customs agents and the lines
that exist as you walk towards the customs agents. Look for the line
that's right in front of one of the customs agents. Go to
the line that's the least filled with people if you can, but
watch out that it isn't a line that's behind a pole or support
column and isn't directly in front
of the customs agent since the agent will pull folks from the
queue closest to the agent's station. You should also be
careful to avoid a queue that is somewhat hidden by a post or
some other obstruction such that the Customs agent can't easily
see you. If you have small children or are
handicapped, you can ask an attendant near the queue entry point
if they have a line for folks with small children or handicapped
people (flash a handicap placard or copy of one if you remember
to bring it). They will often move you up quickly to a
line that isn't noticeable, but does exist for this purpose.
Note that if you fly, you may get through the customs line
rather quickly only to find yourself standing around waiting for
your luggage to show up on a carousel. The reason I point
this out is because it doesn't necessarily mean much if you get
through customs quickly only to wait in another line. If
you take the Chunnel or you only have carry-on bags, getting to
the front of the customs line helps out. After you get
through customs and get your luggage, get to the taxi area
quickly since this line can fill up rather fast. When
arriving in Paris and clearing customs, the taxi line can have
100 people in it waiting for the next taxi. Be very
careful when standing in the taxi line because over-priced
private taxi people will target you (especially Americans in
Paris) and show you a rate that is quite high compared to the
expected rate. See my discussion on taxis to learn more.
-
Discount Tickets -
You can find discounted tickets to
events and local sites at many places including the Internet, but
another good source is the Hotel or B&B where you stay. When
arranging my lodging I include a question asking if they have
discounted tickets or if they know where I can get them nearby.
This also helps when I overlook a possibly interesting site and am
reminded by the correspondence regarding discount tickets that I
should also consider another interesting site. Watch out for
sightseeing while in France. Many of the smaller tourist
sights shut down for two hours at lunch time so you won't be able to
do any sightseeing until they open after lunch. This also goes
for the Tourist Information station in smaller cities.
-
Driving -
Now this
is an interesting subject. I've driven all over the center
and western portions of
France, and I have driven a lot in the U.K. and Ireland.
England is something else when it comes to the speed limit.
These folks drive very fast as you drive away from London. I'm
not exaggerating when I say that I was averaging 80 MPH when
driving the M1 on my way to York from London. People were
constantly passing me too. I think the speed limit is around
70MPH but folks think nothing of doing 100 MPH. Never saw the police either. Every once in
a while you will see a sign that shows a camera on it. The camera
is used to snap pictures of speeders but it never seemed to bother
anyone that I saw. I just keep up with the traffic to avoid
being the cause of an accident but am quite surprised to find
myself frequently doing over 90MPH. If you see cars suddenly
slowing down for no apparent reason, you should slow down too! That's because
someone knows about a camera taking pictures of speeders.
This is especially true when taxis are involved since they seem
to know where all the working cameras are located. If you
drive by one of these cameras and see some flashing lights in
your rearview mirror (and you are the only car around and you
were speeding), you probably just got your picture taken.
The only thing you can hope for is that they haven't upgraded
the camera to a disk drive rather than film and the film ran
out so you won't get a ticket.
Some places where you stay want your license plate number when
you check in. I met a person that told me what he did was
use his cell phone to take a picture of the license plate so he
could easily retrieve the number at check-in. Not a bad idea given that
most newer cell phones include a camera.
Ireland
is a whole different story. The roads can be
extremely narrow, bumpy, pot holes, etc., and the driving
experience can be nerve-racking for Americans. I'm known as someone that
drives quite a bit, but nothing has compared to the Irish driving
experience. People will walk, ride bikes, park on the side
of the road, etc., and it's all you can do to safely get around
them. The bike riders and joggers are absolutely crazy in my
book. I'm really surprised we haven't come across dead
folks rather often due to the dangerousness of the
situation. Seems like I would always be trying to go around
them just in time to nearly hit a gasoline delivery truck head
on! In Ireland you constantly find yourself looking for a
way to pass several slower cars on a really narrow road that looks
like it was made for only one car. That's all you do -
constantly look for the time when you can pass someone. At
least this is the case for many of the roads outside of Dublin. The
roads are twisting around all over the place too.
Constantly. Driving in Ireland is definitely not for the
faint of heart. Once, we encountered some folks herding sheep
and cows down the main road near Dingle along the west coast. They
let the animals out onto the street and then let us herd them
with our car as we were on our way towards our destination. Kind
of interesting, but when you are in a hurry due to the crazy driving
conditions you will surely encounter, it isn't all that much fun.
I will say that the road conditions have been getting better in
parts of Ireland due to the EU. It looks like they are
dumping lots of money into road construction and it is making
Ireland a better place to drive. Of course all that
construction means slow-downs, but eventually it will be better.
International Driver's License
- Not sure if you should get an International Driver's license
if you plan to
drive while in Europe. We got ours once at the local AAA office,
but since then I haven't bothered with it and no one has ever
asked me for an International Driver's License. I've never
heard of anyone encountering any problems when they didn't have
one either.
-
Driving
Directions
- Many people use
Mapquest
or ViaMichelin to get directions of how to get from one place to
another in Europe. As in the U.S., these directions are
not necessarily what you would take if you knew the roads.
My opinion is that it's better than nothing so it can at least
act as a driving aid with maps. Don't do what I did when I
personalized ViaMichelin on the Internet. I mistakenly
made the default distance miles instead of kilometers and when I
printed the directions for France, all the info was in tenths of
a mile and miles. This did me absolutely no good when I
was in France since they use kilometers. Don't forget to
change the settings for non U.K. countries to kilometers or your
directions will be somewhat meaningless. Also note that
although a route looks easier on the map, it may not be the
easiest way to get to your destination. When returning
from Normandy to Paris to return the rental car, I came in from
the North instead of the South. If you want a real
adventure in life, drive in to Paris from the North and head
towards Arc de Triomphe. I guarantee you will wonder if
you will ever make it to the other side of the Seine river.
The roundabout at the Arc de Triomphe is unbelievably dangerous
since there are no road stripes and people drive in all
directions with motor scooters zipping in and out of traffic as
well. We still don't know how we got through that section
of Paris.
-
Electrical Requirements -
You can get power plug
adapters at some hardware stores or Radio Shack when you use
the local 220 volt system. London and
Ireland require the rather big 3 prong plugs (not the 2 prong that
is also listed for England) and Paris requires the 2 prong plugs. They all
use 220 volt power so be sure your electrical devices will run on
220 as well as 110 volts. Most places have the 110 volt shaver
outlets over a light in the bathroom or someplace that is marked
rather well. I use these for recharging my digital camera
batteries or as a power source for my sound machine.
I bring a universal power converter and five spare plug adapters
for the U.K., Ireland, and France. Determine the number of
converters you will need by understanding the types of power
equipment that requires recharging. Some of the items that
will require a converter are: video and digital camera battery
rechargers, a battery charger (for AA/AAA batteries), iPOD or
other MP3 players, electric shaver, hair dryer, curling iron,
video game, and if you are like me - a sound machine for
sleeping. Just about the time I think I brought enough
adapters, someone will complain that they can't charge their MP3
player because I'm using two adapters for a video camera and a
digital camera along with a AA battery recharger, and some other
digital cameras are being recharged. We always seem to be
short on the number of plug adapters we bring, but I think five
is enough for three or four people. Maybe only three plug
adapters for two people traveling.
-
Food - This is another tough
one to describe. Depends on
what you like to eat. We like Indian food so it's not a big
deal in the U.K. or Ireland. We eat Indian food just about every
night. Now Paris, that's another story. These people
love to smoke cigarettes as well as eat! Everyone smokes where we
have eaten. Not
that you eat cigarettes, but if you don't like having the taste of
your food ruined by cigarette smoke, get ready for a real smoking
shocker.
As far as eating Beef in Paris we stay away from it. Their idea of beef
and an American's are different worlds apart. Their meat
is tough such that you can barely chew it. They cover the
toughness with excellent sauces, and leave the meat almost
bloody to make it more tender, but the beef isn't what most
Americans would be used to. Maybe it's all
the steroids us Americans are used to having in our meat. I'd
recommend you stick with the chicken, duck, fish, and couscous dishes.
One other thing is to watch out for what you order in Paris.
Be sure that in fact, they do speak English whether they say they do or
not. We ended up getting everything we spoke about out loud
while reading the menu at one cafe and got really stuffed. At least the price was
very good there and it didn't bankrupt us when the food just kept
coming out one dish after another. Turns out the guy didn't
understand English as well as he or we thought. He just
wrote down everything he heard us say while we were thinking out
loud and served it.
Expect to spend lots of money on food in the U.K., Ireland, and
France with Paris being more expensive than London for similar
meals. There are ways to get simple sandwiches consisting
of ham and a croissant in Paris that can fill you up, even gyros
sandwiches, but it isn't much of a balanced meal that way.
You should also ask them if they accept credit cards right up
front, otherwise you could find yourself visiting the ATM
machine again to get money to cover your meal. The French
seem to either have their favorite eating haunts, or they spend
time walking around and surveying the menus on the windows until
they think the price is fair. Unlike Americans on
vacation, they have an idea of what
"reasonably priced" means.
You should also watch out for "up-selling" in restaurants.
This is where you order something and the waiter tells you that
you should order a larger size or make the order an entree
instead of a side order. This is especially true at Indian
restaurants in the U.K. We know our Indian food and know
how much we can eat without getting stuffed, but the waiters
were always trying to up-sell us and would even go as far as
telling us that we HAD to order something as an entree.
You don't have to order anything as an entree if you don't want
to, so watch out for this tactic. A real easy and somewhat
cheaper item to purchase at an Indian restaurant is a vegetarian
Thali. This is a mixture of vegetables in small metal
bowls (deceivingly small bowls that will get you stuffed),
bread, and a dessert.
Ireland is kind of plain when it comes to eating. The best
meals we found were at Indian restaurants. The breakfasts in
Ireland were all good. The same thing at every place we
stayed in the U.K. - a full English breakfast served at 8AM (usually -
sometimes earlier) and
ending by 9AM.
While in France we stopped along the highway at rest stops to
get something to eat. We walked in and had no clue what to
do next. My advice here is to wait for someone to go in
front of you and basically do what they do. It was pretty
confusing what to do when it came to ordering the meal since
there seemed to be lots of options and depending on what you
did, it could get pretty expensive. The Plat du Jour is
probably the cheapest way to go. We found that French
didn't always have the concept of a menu when we went to
roadside places. The waiter would walk up and ask us what
we wanted. We would ask for a menu and they would stand
there looking confused.
-
Hotels -
When I think of London I think of small. No, I should say
tiny. Their view of roomy and mine are not the same.
You should stay at a 3 star hotel (or higher star rating) or
rent an apartment if you plan to stay for a while.
Years ago we decided to go cheap and we rented two rooms in London so all four of us would have a
place to stay (since a "family room" is not all that common that
will serve four people). The beds weren't as long as me
(I'm 6ft. 2") and the rooms were extremely small. We had
to turn sideways to pass each other in the entrance way and I
ended up sleeping in a fetal position the whole night. Not
a good night's sleep and felt prone to sucking my thumb the next
day. The lesson for me was not to go cheap and to avoid
some of the Americanized hotels that are cheap, but tiny.
One time in Paris we decided to rent an apartment rather than stay
in a hotel since it turned out to be as cheap as a hotel stay
because we were staying for about a week. The apartment
was more like a Residence Inn here in the U.S.A. and cost us
about $130 per night. Not bad considering how large it
was. It was called the "Citadines Voltaire Republique"
apartments and was located off of Parmentier near Republique
square. There was no breakfast included in the price but
there was a Patisserie about 100 feet away where we could get
some breakfast pastries. Lately we have been staying at
Bersoly's due to their close proximity to the Louvre and D'Orsay
and the fact that they have a great air conditioner, the rooms
are clean, and it's a nice place.
In London we have stayed at both the "Royal
National" hotel and the Bonnington Hotel in Bloomsbury as
well as a couple of higher end hotels. Seems to be a lot of Americans
as well as other tourists at the
Royal National Hotel. The Royal National reminded me a lot of a Holiday Inn
Hotel, but more cramped. It is located in an area known as Russell Square in
Bloomsbury. Each room at the Royal National cost us about 80
GBP per night, so we
ended up spending 160 GBP per night for the two rooms. The price
included a "Continental" breakfast but I'm not sure what
continent they were referring to. The breakfast consisted of
a carefully monitored cup of 6 ounces of Orange Juice with a roll
and butter or jelly. That's it, just one roll and one swig
of juice. We went ahead and ate it since we paid for it,
then we went downstairs to a breakfast place and got coffee and a
pastry to feel like we really had some form of breakfast.
Really weak on the Continental breakfast at the Royal National
Hotel. Don't remember if it cost us extra but if it did, I
would suggest you skip it if you decide to stay there.
The Bonnington is a much better hotel and has a typical English
breakfast buffet. It also has two double beds so that
Chris and our daughter (smaller than me) can sleep in a bed and
my son and I could sleep in the other bed. This seems to work out
pretty well wherever we go in the U.K. Note that if you
stay in the Bloomsbury area, the
British Museum and the Hertz car rental place are within easy
walking distance from either the Royal National or Bonnington
(only a couple of blocks from the Bonnington). Another
place we stayed in 2006 that worked out well is the Holiday Inn
in Bloomsbury. We hadn't considered this hotel in the past
because they didn't have air conditioning, but they have
upgraded the rooms with air conditioning and their rates are
better than the Bonnington's.
When we stayed at
the Royalist Hotel in the Cotswolds it was a great deal but I've
noticed lately that the prices have really gone up due to
remodeling. The rooms (two rooms
required again) cost us about $140 for both in 1999 (in 2006 the
rate jumped to $325 per room) and included a "full
English breakfast." Lots of breakfast food at the
Royalist and it was all good. We've stayed in apartments,
hotels, B&Bs, and Guest Houses and I'd say we like the B&Bs the
most unless it's in a large city. Then we opt for a 3 star hotel
since it seems to be the best value for the money. Always
check for air conditioning if traveling in the summer months.
Hotel Arrival - Very interesting regarding
checking in to a hotel. At both London and Paris we were able to
"check in" fairly early. If the room isn't
available you can still store your bags in a secure place for a
nominal fee or even for free. Remember that when you travel
to London or Paris you typically land between 7:30AM to noon and
technically your room isn't available until later. We only brought one suitcase
with us to Paris and left the remaining two suitcases in storage
at our hotel in London where we were planning to return for the
remainder of our stay in London once we returned from France. It cost us about 40 Pence
(40P) per day which isn't all that much and it was in a secure
area. Save that claim check since there may be hundreds of
bags if the hotel is large. The scarf on the handle or the
brightly colored strap trick
works well for quickly identifying your bags in a room full of
bags that will no doubt be black just like yours.
-
Hot Water - There
was plenty of hot water whether in the U.K. or in France. Noticed
some curious hot water systems for the showers in B&Bs in the
U.K. There was either a string
hanging down from the roof and you pull it down until it clicks to
turn on an in-shower water heating device, or you flip a switch
outside the bathroom to turn on the electric water heater for the
shower. Seemed strange to see
an electrical device inside of a shower but it always worked and
rather quickly too. Once it begins heating, you just turn the dial to
how hot you want the water and it's there rather quickly. At times
it has seemed as though you could get scalded with hot water if you weren't
careful. Found that in a couple of places we stayed, someone flushed the toilet
and I had to
step back from the shower since the water pressure dropped, the water
going through the pipe ran through slower, heated up quicker since
less water flow, and I almost got
scalded. The sink hot water gets very hot to the point you could
probably make tea or coffee with it, so be careful if you have a
child that turns on the hot water - they could get scalded.
-
Internet -
I use the Internet for booking my
entire trip as well as for discovering where to stay, sites to see,
local areas of interest, booking rates for auto rental, trains,
subways, Hotels, B&Bs, maps, local history, museums, castles,
wine tours, shopping, discounts, etc., and especially for my correspondence
with the Hotels and B&Bs where I negotiate the rates for rooms as
well as discussing any number of questions that I may have.
Many of the B&Bs and Hotels have rates listed on the Internet as
well as automated booking services, but through correspondence with
the owners via email, I have actually gotten lower rates than those
listed. This tip alone makes my trip advice worth using.
I also use the rec.travel.europe Internet News Group (also known as
a Discussion Group) to post questions regarding recommendations for
where to stay, driving directions to an area of interest, expected
rates to pay in a given area, what others liked or disliked about my
plans, a sample itinerary, etc. Always include the number of
people, how long you plan to stay and when, 2 star vs. 3 star vs. 4 star
accommodations, interests, cost limitations, handicaps, etc.,
when posting a message - it makes the process much simpler and you
will not get "flamed" for asking what some people perceive to be a
dumb question.
You should also determine if there is Internet access that you can
use either in the place you plan to stay, or at least at a nearby
location. I found that one place I planned to stay had
Internet access, but they didn't tell me that they wanted a Pound
for every time we planned to use it and that it was behind the desk
that they use to book reservations which offered no privacy at all.
This is not the kind of Internet access I had in mind, and there was
no place nearby which had anything any better. I would
probably stay in a different place if Internet access could not be
found nearby, unless it's in a remote town where you wouldn't
expect to find the Internet. One of the places we stayed in
France charged 10 Euros to use the computer for Internet access but
they had restrictions on when it could be used. Basically the
hours of use were from 9AM to 4PM which was the times we were not at
the Hotel so their hours of use were pretty useless.
-
Itinerary -
I use an itinerary and a check list year after year to
ensure there won't be any surprises about where I will be and what I
plan to do. It's hard to claim to be prepared, and yet, not have the time
to create
an itinerary. So take my advice - create an itinerary and a
checklist at least three weeks before you take your trip. I create a simple calendar showing the dates
when I will be on the trip and the places where I will be spending a
night. I color code the dates so that I can quickly see when I
will be leaving/returning from Europe as well as changing locations.
I even include exactly where I plan to be each day and the sites I
plan to visit so I have a good idea of where and what I will be
doing. This kind of planning feels better to me since
I'm not spending valuable time making impromptu decisions about what
I should be seeing or doing during an expensive European vacation.
Since I have my own website (the one you are currently visiting), I
upload my plans, maps, contact info, etc., in a password-protected
PDF document that I can download from anywhere in the world.
This way if I forget one of my documents, I know that I can always
download it from the Internet at an Internet Cafe. I use
Microsoft Word to create the file and then use Adobe Acrobat to
create a password-protected PDF file that I upload to the website.
In 2003 I was in a hurry due to a work-related issue (a dumb boss
decided he needed me to do something just before I was to leave for
Europe), and I walked out of the house without my itinerary.
That was devastating since I had a rough memory of when and where I
was going, but had no phone numbers and addresses for the B&Bs where
we were planning on staying. I swore I would never make that
mistake again since to overcome this obstacle, I had my cousin Mikey actually fly to Colorado
from Texas to get on my computer and email me the info to a B&B.
I was anxious about missing all my valuable info and it really
scared me since I had no memory of all the detailed information.
Another thing you can do is send yourself email to a mail account
that can be reached via the Internet. Here is an
example of my Europe
2004 Trip Itinerary that illustrates the details although I
stripped out a lot of the detailed trip info regarding all the maps
I used (the file size would be too large and not necessary to
illustrate the point).
By the
way, I also make a Trip Checklist before I leave home so that I
don't forget anything. Here is an example of my
2004
European Trip Checklist. My 2006 trip checklist was
nothing more than an updated 2004 version of the documents.
You can view my Europe 2006 Trip Itinerary to see how it's progressed and use
it yourself if you'd like. It's a Microsoft Word document so it can
be edited for your own usage. You can right-click on
this link (2006 Europe Trip Itinerary
- Microsoft Word Version) and choose "Save Target As" to save it
to your local hard drive. Note that if you simply click on the
link, it may not open if you don't have Microsoft Word installed on
the computer you are using. Here is a
2006 Europe Trip
Itinerary - PDF Version for those that don't use Microsoft Word.
If you have Acrobat installed, you can simply click on the link to
view it, or, right-click the link and save the pdf file to your
local hard drive. Note that towards the end of the document I
stripped out a lot of detailed info regarding chateaux and castles I
planned to visit to keep the file size down. If you'd like to
see the full size file, send me an email and I'll send you the
complete file. Once you view the documents, you'll get the
idea of what I do and can create one yourself.
-
Jetlag - Colorado is 7 hours behind London and 8
hours behind Paris. We usually feel really tired the first day in
London since no one sleeps on the plane, or at least we get
minimal sleep the whole way over.
That's because we typically leave the U.S.
around 8PM and arrive in London or Paris around mid-morning the
next day. We have left
Denver, Colorado in the past at 3:15PM on a Friday and arrived at
Gatwick around 6:30AM on Saturday. So to us, it was 11:30PM
Friday night. Unfortunately, we still had an entire Saturday
ahead of us. Personally I like the flight that leaves around
7PM or later since I may have a shot at getting some sleep,
even if only a little.
My main advice regarding jet lag is do not lay down! Not
even for a "quickie" nap. Stay up until
about 9 or 10PM and then go to bed. You
probably won't wake up the next day until 9AM so it won't feel too
bad the next day, but you will still feel it. The first
day of arrival is really tough. Once we arrive, we take walking trips which are sort of tiring but takes our minds off of how
tired we feel. Even with a few hours of sleep on the trip
over, we feel somewhat OK, but come 4PM, we really start feeling
kind of dead. I've violated my own "rule" about not taking a
quickie nap and can tell you that I have paid dearly for it for
several days. It throws off the whole sleep pattern. For
at least three days afterwards, I would wake up at 5AM wide awake
and ready to go. Of course, I was also ready to hit the bed at
8:30PM which was no fun for everyone else. Resist the urge to
take a nap and tough it out that first day. You'll thank
yourself later when you see how fast you recover compared to taking
a nap.
When you are in London, one thing you can do
is take a "hop-on/hop-off" bus and just ride around and see
the city. We find that sitting on the top of a
double-decker bus exposes us to sunlight and we typically do not feel as sleepy,
although Chris did fall asleep once and banged her head on the
plexiglas windshield on the upper part of a double-decker bus when she
suddenly fell forward while nodding off. Made a loud banging
sound that was kind of funny more
than anything. I think the funny part was when she suddenly
lurched up and looked around to see what was causing the banging
noise.
Some people take Melatonin that you can get
at the local Vitamin store. This is supposed to readjust
your sleep patterns but don't wait until the trip to try it
out. Chris and I have had extremely bad reactions to
Melatonin and can't take it at all. I've found that sunlight
seems to be the best thing to get us readjusted. I make sure
that I'm in the sunlight during that first day and I seem to
recover quite quickly. Try it, I think you'll agree.
Coming back to the U.S. is another story. I have tried walking
around the block to feel better (it's usually night time or late
afternoon when we get home), but nothing seems to help. I wake
up every morning at 3AM sometimes for weeks before my sleep habits
gets back to normal. The longest I have waited to
get my normal sleep patterns back took me a month and a half.
For me it's never less than a few weeks to get back to normal.
-
Laundry/Ironing Clothes -
It is possible to wash your clothes
yourself at a Laundromat if in a big city such as London, but not quite so easily if staying
in Paris. There are laundry shops all around London
and Dublin but I never really saw any in Paris that didn't
require a rather healthy walk while dragging a suitcase full of
dirty clothes. You can wash your clothes at a Laundromat, but
the soap powder and softeners are expensive if you buy them there.
We shop at a local grocery store and buy the smallest box of soap we
can find and then give it away at the last clothes washing session. I recommend that if you want to wash your clothes
at a Laundromat to save money (as opposed to dropping them off at a
Dry Cleaners or "Pressing" shop in France), and you plan to wash your clothes multiple
times, you buy a box of soap powder at a grocery store after you
arrive and then dump
it in a sturdy zip-lock bag that you brought with you from the
States. Hauling the box of soap powder around in your luggage can lead to
spillage during your travel when moving from one place to another.
Once, we were in London (the early days when we weren't as wise) and
were told to bring our dirty clothes to a local dry cleaners that
would wash them.
We spent
$90 bringing 5 days worth of clothes to this place. We didn't
realize they would dry clean everything since they said they washed
clothes on the sign outside. Ouch. Turned out there was a
regular Laundromat run by a nutty old lady only a couple of blocks
away. I have noticed that the dryers seem to take forever to dry
the clothes. Perhaps that's because we try to cram as much as
we can in a dryer but even still, they seem to gobble up
coins rather quickly. We kind of like the break in action since we can read books or just watch the locals and how they
behave.
Another tip is to negotiate with
the owner of your B&B and see if they will include your clothes with
the B&B items for washing. Sometimes the B&B owner sends
towels and bedding out to be washed and you can have yours included
(just put the dirty clothes in a suitcase and give it to them). I pay
attention to the number of pairs of socks, shirts, and pants that I send
out since I have had a couple of occasions where something was
missing when the clothes came back. I think that like me, they
had a sock disappear so they just kept the remaining one so I
wouldn't notice it. Had a pair of pants disappear once too.
If you do get the B&B to handle the clothes washing, be sure to have
them leave the cleaned clothes in your room! We came in late
one night and found out that the B&B owners had kept the newly
cleaned clothes in a locked room that we didn't know about nor could
we access. When it came time to get dressed in the morning, we
had to put dirty clothes back on so that we could find the owner and
then change in to the clean clothes later. This is also kind of
disruptive to a B&B owner that's trying to serve breakfast and
handle people checking out.
-
Liquor - We
have had good wines in Paris and typically drink
lots of good beer while in the U.K. We
have tried lots of beers in London most of which were warm
and not carbonated. That takes some getting used to for
Americans that are used to carbonated beer that is cold.
The folks in London are really proud of their beer and it turns
out that many of them make their own beer. Once you get used to
the flatness and how cold the beer is (or isn't), it isn't a big
deal. I really enjoy the variety of beers in the U.K.
They post signs showing the alcohol content and more alcohol means more
expensive (usually).
You can't beat the beers in Ireland either. Of course, Guinness is the big
beer there since everyone seems to drink it. It's a lot creamier
in Ireland than it is here in America. They also pour the beer
over a period of several minutes and "paint" a little shamrock in
the foam. Turns out that you can tell which school the
bartender attended by the style of shamrock that is
"painted."
You will find that drinking wine in France at a cafe is cheaper
than drinking beer. While in France, we visit a local
recommended winery and buy bottles of wine that we will drink
while in the area. This is a lot cheaper than ordering
wine with the meal and works quite well when at the end of a
long day of sight-seeing where we want to kick back, drink some
good wine, and reflect on our visit.
-
Luggage - Learned a valuable lesson by watching
someone else. They had a scarf tied around the handle of
their luggage so it would be easy to spot. Another fellow
had a brightly colored strap that went all the way around his bag
so that just in case the zipper failed, the bag wouldn't fall
open. The brightly colored strap was also a great indicator
for his bag so he could find it quickly as it came around the
baggage carousel. I use the
brightly colored strap routine (mine is purple) and it
works perfectly. Other people were checking each similar-looking piece to see if it was theirs and I just
stand back
waiting for the brightly colored strap to show up. Real
easy, you should try it. Just don't pick a purple strap
since that's what I use ;o) Remember that you shouldn't lock
your luggage (since 9/11) because they may cut the lock off
anyway.
Remember that you can store
your luggage at the hotel you will be staying. Also remember
NOT to lose your voucher and clearly mark your luggage. I
left my luggage once in a hotel storage room that I thought was a small room with a bit of luggage in it.
Turns out that anyone could walk up and store their luggage for a
small fee per day (40P per
day). Quite a shocker when the guy let me in the room to
find my luggage. All the luggage was black and looked just
like mine except that there were hundreds of pieces of luggage in the
room. This is where the brightly colored strap around the
luggage really pays off. You would be surprised how few people
actually know this handy technique. Another trick I use is a
brightly colored name card (mine is bright pink) that I make
using a hot press laminator. I use Microsoft Word to
create a name tag that includes my name, address, telephone
number in the U.S. where I can be reached, and an email address.
I also type instructions for what to do if the bag is found.
In my case, the instructions read "If you found this bag and do
not know how to contact me, please send me email at <email
address> with your telephone number or address so that I can
contact you immediately." So far this hasn't been an
issue, but a person finding a piece of my luggage with
information on the name tag for the U.S. does me no good when I
am in England or some other foreign country. I can read my
email from anywhere.
-
Packing
- We divide our clothes up by what we will wear on a given day.
We place the clothes in a vinyl airtight bag that can be
"rolled" to expel the air out of the bag. Once we have
this done, we split clothes up evenly
among our luggage so that we could survive OK even if a suitcase got
lost. We pack the following in our carry-on bags: all our cameras, tickets, maps,
umbrella, raincoats, medicine, nasal spray, aspirin, band aids,
Kleenex, hair brushes, deodorant, and washcloths - yes - it's more
likely than not that there won't be any washcloths where you stay.
The washcloth is kept in a baggie and we use it at the airport
to freshen up, on the airplane trip, and then at the hotels. The kids
take their own backpacks and bring their books, games,
raincoat, and umbrella packed in them as well.
When packing our clothes in an airtight vinyl bag, we place all
of our underwear that will be worn in one day for the whole
family (there are usually four of us) in a single bag, then
shirts for one day for all of us in another bag, then pants that
will be worn on two days for all of us in another bag.
That makes two bags that will be opened each day (underwear in
one bag, shirts in another bag), and one bag of pants that will
be used every two days. This may sound like a lot of bags,
but these bags are rather cheap and when the air is squeezed
out, they take up very little room and pack easily. It
also protects the clothes from anything getting on them.
During our stay, we put dirty clothes in bags as well. We
put the whites and colored clothes in one bag (as many as we can
cram in a bag) and the darks in another bag. We do this
until we need to wash our clothes at a laundry and this makes
things much easier to handle. This also protects the odor
contamination from occurring between clean and dirty clothes.
When we wash and dry our clothes at a local laundry, we pack the
clothes as I mentioned above right there at the laundry as we
take them out of the dryer. This way we are always
prepared and getting up in the morning and wondering which
clothes to wear and where they are is a snap.
-
Maps -
City maps are somewhat worthless in Dublin but are pretty good
for London and Paris. If
you have to drive in London you should be sure that the map is
detailed down to the city block level or you will get lost.
Remember that in England the name of the street changes almost
every block. To find out what street you are on just look up
towards the second floor of any building near the corner of the
street and you will see a sign that indicates the street you are
on. It isn't bad, but you'd better be good at spotting the
white sign with the street name on it or you'll be getting lost
rather often. England has roads that begin with a
"M" or an "A" and indicate the type of road it
is. The "M" roads are "Motorways" and people drive quite fast. The
"A" roads are often more scenic but are typically
two-lane roads with passing areas although they do include 4 lane
roads as well. My favorite maps when driving outside the
major cities is an "Ordinance Survey" map which is quite detailed.
The Michelin road atlas is good for France although France is
not as good with street names as the U.K.
As I mentioned above, maps of Dublin are
somewhat worthless - probably because they don't seem to have
any visible street signs so why make the map with street names
listed? The maps of Dublin that we brought were totally
useless since there are far more streets than what was listed.
I think the maps of Ireland in general are pretty worthless
except for the main "highways." When you read the maps of
Ireland you will think that the road appears to be a major
highway similar to England's roads. Wrong! These are
two-lane roads with barely enough room to have two cars pass
side by side. The maps of the larger cities really aren't
very good and are somewhat of a waste of time since you won't
see any street signs anyway.
-
Money - We
take about 300 Pounds of U.K. money (you'll
be going through this pretty fast) and 400 Euros if we visit
France or Ireland. We use ATM machines anywhere we go in Europe,
the exchange rate is good, and it helps us to avoid the
hassle of carrying cash from the beginning of the trip. Use your Visa/Master Card when possible when buying
just about anything, but always ask if they take credit cards
first, especially at small eateries! If you don't ask, the
people may tell you that they don't accept credit cards after
you've ordered your food when in fact they do - they would just
rather have the cash. This was especially the case in
Paris, although in England we find that they often don't take credit cards at smaller places.
Most all of the pubs take credit cards and we often eat in the
pubs in the U.K. We don't bother with American Express
traveler's cheques or credit cards since I've found that hardly anyone will take
them.
-
Pick-pockets
- Well, I almost got nailed by a group of pick-pockets on the
Paris metro during rush-hour when the subway cars were crammed
with people during my June 2001 trip. You always hear warnings or stories about
pick-pockets, but this was the first time I actually encountered
it myself. I blew some obvious things that should have been
a tip-off to me, but now I have the info in hand to tell you about
it so that hopefully it won't happen to you. By the way,
while waiting for a taxi outside Victoria Station in London an
American elderly lady told me that the last time she was in London
the pick-pockets had stolen her wallet and all of her credit cards
while riding on the Tube within 6 hours of arriving in London.
Most folks ask me if I have ever heard of a money belt, but I find them
to be a pain to get to the money, hot, and basically
inconvenient. Of
course I've seen folks with the money belt also carry other
valuables such as a camera or a tote-bag/backpack and the
pick-pockets can go after items in these as well, so the money
belt works, but just for the money and credit cards. I
imagine it depends on where you plan to travel in Europe but so
far I've been pretty savvy about where I stand and how I
maneuver in crowded areas where pick-pockets like to operate.
NEVER stand in the center of a subway car that is crammed with
people with your wallet in your back pocket. This gives the pick-pocket(s) the chance to jostle
you about, bump you as they try to detect where your wallet is,
and many angles to pick your pocket. Get up against the side
of the subway car with your back towards it if possible, or with your back and sides against objects (or
friends/kids/etc.) that will prevent the pick-pocket from getting
to your pocket/backpack/etc. They need to know which pocket has the goods and the best way to get to it, so if the
pocket/backpack is protected by being inaccessible, they can't get
to it. Also you shouldn't put a wallet in a zipped pocket of
a backpack that is easily accessible from behind. Take the
backpack off and hold it with your arms through the straps to protect the area where
your valuable is located rather than simply leaving the backpack
on your back and accessible to a pick-pocket.
Always be especially careful when approaching a Metro/Tube stop since this is the key time for them to
grab and then escape. The guys that were trying to nail me were perched to
snatch my wallet just seconds before the metro door was going to
open. Due to the number of people on board, the people
getting on and off at the same time, and the short timeframe for
when the door is actually open (about 20 seconds during rush
hour), it would have given them a chance
to snatch my wallet, get out the door, disappear in to the crowd,
and although I would have probably detected that they snatched my
wallet, I couldn't have gotten out of the subway car fast enough
nor would I have known exactly which person had my wallet if I did
make it out of the subway car.
This is why they sometimes work in pairs or threes.
In my
case, I was standing behind the center pole hanging on to the pole
(bad since the pole was between me and exiting the car), one guy
was facing me holding on to the pole, another guy was beside me
jostling me around, and the other guy was directly behind me to
also distract me or perhaps push me down or in to some other
people when it was time for them
to make an exit. The guy facing me threw me off because I
could see his hand holding the pole just above my hand. What
I didn't see was that he was using his other hand across his body
and shielded by a vest that he was wearing to ever so gently push
my wallet upwards in my front pocket (I carry my wallet in my
front pocket since it is harder to reach than a back pocket for
the pick pocket - or so I thought). They were timing it so
that as the Metro was getting close to the next stop (a very busy
one - Chatelet) the one guy would push my wallet up so that it
would be reachable by the guy beside me, and the guy beside me
would snatch it out with the guy behind me pushing me down or out
of the way so that all three of them would get off the Metro
leaving me to know that I just got my pocket picked but not
knowing who had the wallet nor probably able to get out of the
subway car before the door closed.
I was lucky in the sense that my wallet was in my front pocket and
I detected that something felt strange around my front pocket as I
couldn't really feel the weight of my wallet in my pocket.
I'm very keen on my surroundings so I would notice such a thing
but I'm not sure the average person would have really noticed this
action going on. I quickly let go of the pole and brushed my
hand downwards towards my right front pocket. I felt the
wallet drop a couple of inches down in my pocket and the guy
holding on to the pole (he was the guy that was lifting my wallet
upwards) immediately turned and started jostling around for the
door that was starting to open. The door opened and he and
his two other friends immediately got off. One thing I
noticed as they all three got off was that they were rather crummy
looking people and they were all three wearing vests that were not
fastened. As they got off they turned around and looked at
me once outside the subway car. They knew that I knew what
they were up to but it didn't matter since they were outside the
car, the door closed and the subway moved on. Hope this
doesn't happen to you, but beware because this is how these folks
make their living and they are good at it. Crowded tourist
sites (like Notre Dame for example) is also a good place to get
your pocket picked. I suppose the money belt would make this
whole thing a non-issue but I think they are uncomfortable.
I put my wallet in my front pocket before getting close to a
group of people and keep my hand in the pocket with my wallet.
Not wrapped around my wallet though since they could snatch my
hand out which would maybe cause the wallet to come out with it
and fall on the floor where they could pick it up and run away.
These kinds of things can happen anywhere a crowd exists and
jostling against other people would not be uncommon. This is
how they are successful. They require the act of distracting
you by bumping you, touching you somehow, jostling against you,
accidentally falling against you, having kids walk up and tug at
you, trying to get you to look at a map, etc., to accomplish their
mission. Avoid putting yourself in to this kind of position
and you will probably avoid most problems associated with the
"setup." Sometimes a good tactic for men
or women that use a wallet is to put it in your front pocket
with a large rubber band around it. The rubber band makes
it difficult to slip out of your pocket without you noticing it.
Another trick is to put your wallet in your front pocket and
then use your hand to flip the inside pocket around so that it's
twisted under your pants. It will stay flat like a normal
pocket but will be twisted such that someone can't get their
hand in your pocket with you giving your pants some slack to
undo the twist. Simple trick and effective too.
-
Pubs -
I think pubs in the U.K. and
Ireland have to be the best.
Parisian cafes are still fun too, but the language barrier leaves
you unable to really speak with anyone unless you know their
language and they seem to be a little more sterile. We
find the people in London and York very friendly and wanting to talk about
what it is like in America. In particular, they are
interested in what we think about our own TV shows (since they
see them over there too), the size of our house, the general cost
of living, and the spaciousness of the U.S. They really
don't know how big America is (unless they've been here) and how much room there is over
here. The other interesting topic is the difference between
how we use the English language here in America. The folks I
met in York and London provided me with many laughs at the things
we say that have totally different meanings in the U.K. or no
meaning at all. I could write pages and pages about the
differences in our English language but you should really experience it
yourself. Strike up a conversation at a pub in the U.K. and
talk about the difference in the English language. You will be
entertained for as long as you are willing to talk about it (I
spent 2 hours on the subject with a couple of guys in London and
we all got a kick out of it). Our language difference often
comes up when speaking with locals.
They are also interested in what we think about sports in general.
They say they don't understand American football and wonder how important soccer
is over here in the U.S. They seem
to be fanatics over there when it comes to their version of
football - soccer. Some of the fans were kind of rowdy in
York when we were there during the Euro 2000. Lots of
singing when they were doing well and cursing and throwing stuff
in the street when they lost (I think they were rowdy drinkers). Our overall consensus
regarding soccer is that it isn't big in America due to the
commercial breaks. That's right, the commercial
breaks. Soccer doesn't stop, the game just keeps going on,
so how would they show commercials here in America? Too bad,
since we really enjoy watching soccer in the U.K. and it really
is a fun sport to watch. I have a satellite dish that shows
soccer from France, the U.K. and Germany and have favorite teams such as
Arsenal and Manchester United that I enjoy watching.
Locals are always surprised when I seem to know the various
players and can comment on various teams' strengths and
weaknesses.
-
Purse
Snatching - Getting your purse snatched, tote bag stolen,
backpack snatched, or a camera stolen can be avoided if following
simple strategies. Never carry your purse simply draped over
one shoulder. This applies to tote bags, backpacks, and a
camera too. It is too easy for a purse snatcher to run by at
nearly a trot and snatch off the item and keep on
running. It will NOT be very easy for you to catch up with the
person since they are on a fast trot or running and you are at a stop
or slow enough speed that you will never catch up.
Remember that this is what they do for a living so they are very
quick at it and know exactly what they are doing. Put the strap cross-wise across your body and
still hang on to the item with a free hand when approaching people
or standing in a spot where a passer-by could grab the item.
When walking on the sidewalk, be sure your purse or bag is on the
side opposite from the street. Purse snatchers may ride by on
a motor scooter and snatch it off the side closest to them.
Another trick that snatchers use is to find you sitting at a
table within arms reach and you leave your item on the table (as in
leaving a camera on a table while sitting outside a Bistro or Cafe
and people-watching). This is the easiest possible
target. When we sit outside at a Cafe to do people-watching
we set our backpacks down on the ground in front of us and put one
foot through the straps so the bag can't be lifted by someone
feigning to pick up something off of the ground. We also sit
back a couple of rows so that we are not close to passer-bys on
the sidewalk. Never put the item across the back of your
chair as it is just as easy to be snatched off of the chair. If you walk carrying a backpack, never
drape it over just one shoulder unless you are holding on to the
strap with your hand. When carrying a camera, I wear it
around my neck or I put my hand through the strap and wrap it
around my wrist several times. Especially when taking
pictures. Don't just hold the camera and let the strap hang
down as it is quite easy for someone to grab the strap and snatch
it out of your hands. Let me know if you have some other
tips on this area too as this is one topic that can ruin your
vacation!
-
Roads -
The roads in
the U.K. and France are pretty good. You will need to drive in
the U.K. if you want to see sites along the way and a train won't
work for you. You will definitely need to drive in Ireland
if you plan to go outside Dublin, Galway, Belfast, or Ulster. I've driven thousands
of miles in the
U.K. and I feel quite used to it almost as soon as I start driving
again (do it every year) so it isn't too big of a deal to do it.
Mostly it's getting used to the round-abouts, the proper lane to
drive in (the right-most lane is the fast lane), the signage
that is different, and ensuring you drive the same distance from
the centerline over there that you do in America.
Americans often have a tendency to drive too far to the left
side of the road. Hitting the windshield wipers instead of
the turn signal is also a common thing.
Ireland's roads have got to be the
worst although the EU is helping them rapidly improve. They are not much more than 15 ft. across, are mostly
two-lane (despite the color on the maps that would imply they are
an Interstate type of road), and seem to be built with a power
pole, stone wall, or trees and shrubs at the edge of the
road. The side of our rental car was really scraped up
before we even drove it due to the bushes that seem to be
constantly swiping at the car when in rural areas. The driving there
is just
unbelievable when it's a rural two-lane road. You are pretty much forced to drive a car
(except in Dublin where you can take buses) and the signs simply
don't exist. The streets rarely have a sign on them and
unlike London, they aren't listed on the buildings either.
A common story in Ireland is
"it's just straight up the road." No, it isn't
just straight up any road and the road invariably forks so that
you have no idea which way to go. We have been lost in every major
city we entered in Ireland due to the lack of signs and maps that are
available (we did a
lot of driving).
The roads in Wales are rather narrow too but nothing compared to
Ireland. One of the problems we encountered in Wales was
temporary traffic lights that were set up while they were working on
the road so that only one lane of traffic could go at a time. I noticed that although the traffic light would
turn red, I could sneak in behind the car in front of me (I know,
I know).
Scotland has nice roads although they are quite twisty-turny
towards the Western side of the country. Off street
parking is always a hassle when staying in larger cities.
-
Sound Machine - I know what you're thinking -
sound machine? You bet. Our whole family has been
sleeping with these things for years now. You can train
yourself to hear anything you want to hear over the sound of white
noise (or pink noise) and you should try and get used to it before
you bring one with you if you don't currently have one. But definitely bring one with
you. Sharper Image sells them for about $100 but you
can sometimes get them on sale for about 50 bucks.
Forget
the ocean sounds, cricket sounds, etc., and just use the white
noise or heavy rainfall sound. These will mask all the
sounds you are not used to hearing and allow you to sleep much
better. Decent ones will also run on batteries, but if you
are staying in "Americanized" hotels, they will have an
outlet for you to plug in your battery eliminator. It will
say something like "for shavers only" but the current
draw on the sound machines is really quite low (that's why they
can run on AA batteries). If no
outlet is present, you can use the spare batteries you brought with you for your camera and just recharge the extras as
they wear down. Trust me on this sound machine thing. Once you buy
a sound machine and get used to it at night at your home, you will
never go back to sleeping without one. No dog barking,
people laughing/yelling sounds, or horns blowing and car door
slamming sounds will bother you again, yet you can hear anything
that sounds unusual such as glass breaking. I can even hear
the kids when they get up to use the bathroom.
-
Subway Systems - I think that our whole family
agrees that the Parisians have the subway system down pat.
Even with the language barrier it was easy to find our way
around. One thing we also agree on is that the walking
in the Metro subway system is probably what keeps these people so
thin! You will walk miles over there even when using the
subway system! It seems like you
can walk a mile just inside the subway area getting off of one and
grabbing another one. The Metro subway is also very clean,
rather large, well lit, and the subway itself is rather open as
opposed to the London Underground (also known as the
"Tube").
In London it is usually crowded and we
rarely get a seat on the subway car. On top of that, the subway shafts are
shaped like a tube so the top of the subway car is rounded forcing
someone tall like me to hunch over when I have to stand. Lots more jerking around
in the London Underground too. I find the London Underground to be
somewhat "sooty." At the end of the day you can
wipe your nose with a tissue and find all kinds of black stuff in
your nose. Never found this to be the case in Paris.
You will hear a tone just before the door shuts on both subways so
you'd better be out of the way when the door shuts. The
Metro has one quirk regarding the door release. It is
actually a chrome handle that you have to turn so that the door
will open. If you don't turn the handle, the door won't
open.
The many corridors you walk down in Paris have
musicians playing for handouts and can be somewhat
entertaining. One thing we didn't like about the Metro is
the lack of escalators. There just wasn't any, so if you
have your bags with you, plan on lugging them up stairs with you.
Actually, I'd take a taxi if I was going to the hotel from the
airport or the train station. We left most of our bags in London
one time and only took what we
needed to Paris. They charged us about 40P per day in London
to store the bags at the hotel so it was better than lugging bags
we really didn't need to Paris.
When you travel to England, tak |
